Fujian

Centuries ago the Hakka (Kejia) people migrated to Fujian Province to escape unrest further north. It is said that when they reached the Yongding County area in the western part of the province it was decided to settle in
the lush mountains, but not being able to afford to build homes of wood and brick they used the ‘golden earth’ of Fujian to construct the unique homes known as Hakka Houses. The oldest of the earthhouses are more than 600 years old and the largest can house up towards of 80 families or more. The earthhouses remain the preferred way of living for many Hakka to this day. Not only are the houses themselves interesting to visit, but the countryside in and around Yongding County is green and beautiful.

When you arrive in Yongding County it becomes clear why the Hakka decided to settle here; the lush
mountain slopes, where the areas’ famous tea is grown, is the dominant landscape feature. There are – literally – hundreds of earthhouses to see. Overall, there are three main areas near Yongding, all requiring entrance tickets, where you can visit the earthhouses. Some of the areas are very touristy, especially the cluster that includes the Chengxi Lou, the biggest of them all. At Chengxi Lou you’re not allowed to visit the upper floors of the enormous building because of fears that the weight of the tourists will bring the building to collapse. Go see it for the size, but pick other tulous if you want to have some peace and quiet.

You’ll find peace and quiet if you visit Jiangnan and Jiangzhong villages. They have some of the best preserved tulous, and almost never sees tourists. The Yanxiang Lou in Jiangnan is magnificent. About a kilometer down the road from Jiangnan you can visit the Huanji Lou in Jiangzhong.  It is locally very famous for the central clapping stone, said to resemble the central stone on the Round Altar in the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.

The village of Taxiacun, a tiny collection of houses near a small country road, is home to a very tranquil local temple in front of which a row of pagoda-like structures have been built.

In the northeastern part of the province Mt. Wuyishan is beconing with great hikes and fantastic countryside views. Wuyishan is also home to one of China's more famous tea sorts, Wuyishan Tea.

At some point during your stay in Fujian you will likely find yourself in Xiamen. This charming colonial city has become modern, but luckily much of the colonial architecture remains, especially on Gulangyu Island just off the coast.

The city of Quanzhou north of Xiamen may not ring a bell with most travellers, but should you find yourself here don't miss the Guandi Temple, which is very lively and a great place to learn more about ancestor worship.